Lost in Whiteout on the Misty Mountains

So this past weekend, I headed up to the Remarkables (aka the Misty Mountains in the Lord of the Rings) to meet up with James (the guy that I met in Queenstown) and do some ice climbing for a few days. We also went with a friend of James, who goes by Roo. We were going to camp out for a couple of days so needed to bring food, camping, and climbing equipment. Snowshoes were required since we had to hike about 2 km, contouring around Double Cone mountain, which had received a fresh onslaught of snow.

I see a trend in the ice I have climbed in the two years. In North Carolina, I missed some of the best ice conditions this past January because I was taking a Wilderness First Responder course, only to climb the tail end, spring break of 2009 in Colorado ( it was warmer than NC), and now in New Zealand on the tail end of winter, I am met with soupy ice. Soupy ice is nice for climbing because it requires less energy to get a good stick (swinging the ice axe into the ice); however, it is not so good for protection or anchors. Most of the ice was the consistency of a snow-cone and it was hard to find solid ice that was not aerated. There were some very cool looking routes and heaps of potential but the conditions were slightly less than favorable (or safe). Most of the large WI 5's (a rating for ice routes based on how steep the route is -- 7 is the highest) were either hollow, detached, or had a visible crack running across the pillar. Therefore, we had few options of we climbable ice. Although, my view is to climb anything that is top-ropeable (do not have to lead from the ground up), James and Roo seemed uncomfortable with the conditions. I felt fine, probably due to the fact that I have climbed really crappy ice in North Carolina for so long. We ended up doing only five routes in 2 days, most of which were single pitch but some topped out at about 100 meters.

The plan for the last day was to wake up around 8:30 and start the steep hike out of Wye Valley. It had been snowing hard the previous day and it was again snowing hard the morning for the hike out. A couple of factors made this hike out less than desirable: the packs were just as heavy because everything was wet and freezing, including climbing ropes; my ice boots are not waterproof so had taken on water for the last couple of days -- it was the constant entry of snow into my boots, water pooling at my feet and then freezing during then night, and thawing them out with the heat from my feet each morning. At times the snow was too steep or too exposed for snowshoes, which required removing the 60+ lbs pack, donning crampons, putting poles away, retrieving an ice axe, and putting the snowshoes away. To make matter worse, once we reached the top of the valley we were in the mist of the misty mountains. Whiteout.

I felt as though I knew where to go -- based mostly on intuition. But there is no messing around in a whiteout. It would be very easy to walk off some cliff edge or initiate an avalanche. The visibility was such that I would, at times, widen my eyes as if I were in a very dark room or cave, trying to distinguish between snow and sky. James had a map and compass for the area but that meant stopping about ever 30 meters to make sure we were on the same bearing. Unfortunately, the wind was so cold that stopping meant my wet clothing would freeze. In retrospect, the map and compass actually caused more problems and probably shouldn't have been used. Intuition is a powerful guide. James at one point said we needed to climb this steep ridge to make for the exit saddle but it didn't feel right. We later made many wrong turns... sometimes into avalanche territory. Fours hours later, I knew we were lost... and that was a horrible feeling.

We dropped down onside of a ridge. A very steep ridge. Close to the bottom we realized that we went down the wrong saddle, which meant hiking all the way back up. I about went mental. I could not removed the pack anymore to go through the process of removing snowshoes and putting on crampons. I could not stand falling up to my waist in snow, my pack giving into gravity and pulling me downhill. I could not stand the thought of digging a snowcave and spending another night in this weather. Finally at the top of the ridge, I yelled to James in Roo, mostly because the wind was blowing hard but also because I was completely frustrated, that we needed to head left hugging the ridge and we would find it. Call it luck if you want but I was right.

I barely made it to Queenstown to catch the bus at 5:25 pm. We spent six and a half hours in the whiteout and the hike out should have taken three hours at most, and we fortunately made it out before nightfall. I think I will stay in Dunedin this weekend.

Simplicity

Here is an entry into my, what Kiwi's like to call "diaries". I prefer journal. Anyway, I went with a Kiwi (Ben) to this beach for some quite time this sunday afternoon.

"I am at the Aramoana beach. Absolutely breathtaking. I am on this small [30 meter rock] ridge above the beach with the tide breaking below me. The beach is long and pristine, with rock outcroppings scattered like miniature islands. The water looks similar to that of the Caribbean -- it is green and blue and I can make out the shapes of sea life swimming by (no seals though). I look to my right and I see a light house, small but enough light to guide the large tankers into the small inlet that opens to the Dunedin sound proper. I am essentially on the other side of the peninsula. I watch a large tanker full of goods make its way into the bay.

Out in the ocean there is nothing to see, save a large rain cloud threatening to get me wet! To my left are large, mostly green cliffs that drop into the ocean. I can follow the [coastline] all the way north -- just barely seeing the snowcapped mountains. All I can hear are the waves breaking. Nothing else. I feel a slight breeze, cold but with my mat and downjacket I am warm enough. The warmth of the sun is welcomed when it manages to break through the partly clouded, blue skies. I smell fresh air. No smell of pollution or rotten fish/ sea weed. My conclusion: mountains + ocean = heaven.

Places like this remind me how insignificant I am. I seem to like to emphasize that but it is true. Put me in the ocean and I would not last very long. Leave me in the mountains and I might fare better but still, there is only so much in my control. I see, hear, feel, and smell the scene before me but still I am not able to grasp it. Even the large tanker was a small dot just moments ago in the raging ocean -- waves, I like to think, coming from the west coast of the USA (but probably from Chile).

I wonder about my place in this world. What am I suppose to do with my life? How am I going to take my place in this world when I feel so small [and so unimportant]? I am not sure of my career aspirations. I am not sure if my academics reveal much about what I am [called] to do.

There is much to learn from the wild world though: simplicity. Isn't that funny? We have to spend a lot of time trying to understand simplicity. People [are] too busy running around and do not take the time to stop and think about [the world around them and their place in it]. [There are so many distractions that cause a complex life].

This amazing [understatement] view in front of me tells me something about my questions: To the top of the highest mountains, to the deepest ocean, how great is God's love for me. The mountains and the ocean are immeasurable and still how much more is His love for the people who inhabit this world. God is good. God is love. God is sovereign. Simple."

Soon after I wrote this I watch some dudes donned in dry-suits run into the water with their surfboards and catch some waves. New Zealand is too cool.

One month down

I guess I am surprised how fast time has gone by here. I sometimes am concerned that I will not have enough time here to do and see all the things I want!! Other times three and half more months seems like a lot of time.

I think I am finally settling in here. I am becoming ever more savvy with grocery shopping -- slowly reducing the money flowing out of my pocket. I definitely am not eating as much here as I do back home, but it is interesting to think that even though most of the time I am a little bit hungry, I am eating more that the average person does daily around the world. I am even planning on going hunting with a guy I know who is in the military here. He wants to go "stick a pig", which means hunting wild boar with just a knife. It is pretty popular here... mostly due to the natives (Maori people). But we will probably either go surf-fishing or hunt for deer, rabbit, and goat. I

I went climbing with this guy, whose name is Sam. I met him through a church I have been going to and he was graciously been driving me when I am in town, including thursday night bible study (fortnightly). I really like him mainly because he is really into getting outside and doing things, likes guns, enjoys climbing, and is an awesome Christian. We really didn't climb that much last night but I really had a good time with him. We were climbing at a spot called "Long Beach", which is literally right on the beach. Well, it is not that nice in the winter... quite cold actually. The climbing was surprisingly good even though it looked quite desperate. It is really similar to the climbing back home in NC. That means it is adventurous, which means slightly more heady -- and that means slightly more dangerous. I realized this on the last route in the dark, with no headlamp, and wet loose rock.

I am really thankful for climbing in my life. It is such a nice release and humbling. Having such a nice spot just 30 mins away from the Uni is quite nice as well. Whenever I am stressed out or worried and then go climbing, I am reminded of how awesome it is to be alive and important to stay alive to climb another day. I am also humbled because the climbing is in some of the most isolated spots of the country, surrounded by either a huge ocean or mountains. Climbing last night in the dark with just the booming sound of the ocean in my ears was frightening but cool. I am just a small little being.

I have a micro terms test on monday. I have not really studied for it but I am devoting the rest of the day for that purpose. It will be interesting to see if the schooling here is easier than Davidson, which everyone says is way harder than any other school they have been to. It is grow colder here again: snow is in the forecast for Dunedin. I am hoping to go ice climbing this weekend. I have a semester break coming up as well on the 28th - Sept. 5. I am making plans to expand my travels by perhaps going to Mount Cook (the tallest mountain in NZ) and of course climbing it, or go to Mount Aspiring. That all depends on weather really and avalanche conditions. But I do not want to spend too much time there so I will most likely bus over and stay with Alex and Kathryn in Castle Hill, which boast some of the best climbing in the world. There are sooooo many boulders (the huge fighting scene in the Chronicles of Narnia was filmed there)! That is far off though. Tomorrow I plan on going with this other guy named Ben to Long Beach for some Jesus time (i.e. sitting on the beach and meditating -- though i might do a little bit of bouldering as well :) )

I am very blessed to be here. It is hard to be away from family and those that I love but God as been good with giving me people to hang out with.

Crushing it in Wanaka!!

So my plans for this past weekend were to go to Wanaka for some climbing with the english couple, Alex and Kathryn, who I met last time I was up there. Then miss a few classes for ice climbing at Wye Creek in Queenstown with a guy named James, who I happened to meet in Queenstown (and who has climbed with my brother). The weather seemed to have a different plna. It warmed up quite a bit here enough to encourage shorts! It rained most of saturday and sunday, so ice was out. I decided to stay in wanaka for Monday and Tuesday anyway. The weather improved for rock climbing, and I ended up having a great time hanging out with Alex and Kathryn! It seems winter here is coming to a close and I am hoping to get on some ice before it is all gone! I ran into another guy in Wanaka from Tasmania who said that the west coast seems promising (perhaps I'll head there).

I suppose something I have been really impressed with is the kindness of the people I have met. I was sitting on the street waiting for Alex and Kathryn to pick me up and this women came up to me and started chatting with me. Everyone is very hospitable and not expecting anything in return.

I must return to the studies! Here are some pictures from this weekened.

The videos I promised.

Here are the two links to the videos watch them in this order. There are also some videos from my trip this weekend.

http://www.crazylovebook.com/videos_awe.html

http://www.crazylovebook.com/videos_stop.html

Queenstown

I had the most amazing weekend in some of the most beautiful country that I have ever seen. I could not believe my eyes. At moments I thought that I was looking at a poster or something. This beauty is unbelievable.

The school group that I came to New Zealand with went to Queenstown for the weekend. Arriving friday, we went on a shotover jetboat ride on a river (look it up on the internet) . We then had the rest of the evening to ourselves. The next day we awoke to more glory with the sunrise on the Remarkables (the misty mountains in LOTR). We took a hour coach ride to the Routeburn Track, which was absolutely unbelievable. I honesty think I could hike that everyday and never grow tired of the sites. We hiked to the first hut and then a little further to the saddle before the snow was too high to pass. The pictures will not do the 25 km hike justice. I was also able, for the first time ever in my life, to drink with my hands from a spring. No filtering required. Amazing!

On sunday, some people bungy jumped. I decided to save my money for other adventures a little more lasting. I was able to have some time on the town, which was actually very encouraging. I ate lunch at this world class burger place called the "Ferg Burger". IT WAS THE BEST BURGER EVER. Massive, juicy, and with brie cheese. I then wanted to talk to some locals about ice climbing, which is popular in Queenstown. I do a fair bit back in the states and have not met anyone here who is keen to do some ice, mixed, or alpine climbing. It is hard to get into the climbing community here. Anyway, I went into the first outdoor store I saw and talked to the first person I saw. We chatted for a bit about ice climbing and he offered to go out with me. He has not been here very long, just moved from the UK in march. I thought that was pretty neat that the first person I talked to was keen to do lots of climbing. We exchanged numbers on the store business cards and shook hands. As I am about to leave he reads the my name and says, "Councell? Are you related to Andrew Councell?" I was absolutely shocked! He apparently had climbed with my brother (who is a climbing guide) in colorado. I could not believe my ears. There is not such thing as a coincidence. So, we are planning on climbing whenever we the weather permits... I just have to find how to get to Queenstown from Dunedin (a 3.5 hr drive).

I experienced such peace and rest this weekend. I was able to catch a glimpse of God's glory, as the song goes, "I see your face in every sunrise..." Then, to add to the already amazing weekend, I meet this guy who has climbed with my brother who lives in UK and happened to be the store that I chose to go into. Unbelievable. I am going to post some pictures, though there are more on my facebook. Also, I am going to post two links to videos that express in better words some of the feelings I had while being in the wilderness this weekend.

Classes

It is the second week of classes and things seem to be going well. They have a somewhat different style of... well ... everything here. Lectures are broken up between multiple professors. Classes are massive -- some 300 +. Then there are tutorials which are smaller classes where you can discuss some of the things you are learning. I am in a 200 level (which would be a 300 level at Davidson) microbiology class called, "Microbes in action". Today we talked about the oil spill in the gulf and the use of bacteria for the cleanup. Classes also do not always meet in the same room or even the same building. My biostatistics class meets 8:00 am in one building everyday of the week except on tuesdays when it meets at 5:00 pm in a completely different building. Then I am in a english class on crime fiction. There is a lot of reading but fortunately most of it is actually crime fiction, which is easy to read quickly. I am taking a lighter load so that I will be able to travel around and explore the island. I am learning a lot... in more ways than I expected.